Tips for Sewing Stretchy and Elastic Fabrics

Tackling stretchy and elastic fabrics can be a challenge, whether you’ve just started sewing or are a pro. You may even avoid dealing with these fabrics — which could mean limiting your creative options and even losing revenue if you provide sewing services.

Luckily, with a bit of guidance, you can stop fearing stretchy and elastic fabrics and may even — dare we say it? — enjoy the process. From recognizing the various types of stretchy fabrics you may encounter to what tools you’ll need to use, here are the top tips you should know.

Recognizing Stretchy Fabrics

Fabrics that are stretchy and elastic for sewing aren’t always immediately recognizable. While they tend to be knitted or woven fabrics, the main defining feature is that they have a greater amount of stretch and recovery than other fabrics do. You can test this by pulling on them gently. If the fabric has give, it’s a stretchy fabric.

A fabric’s stretch is expressed as either a 2-way or 4-way. A 2-way stretch is horizontal, while a 4-way stretch is both horizontal and vertical. Some of the most common types of stretchy and elastic fabrics are:

• Lycra
• Jersey
• Tulle
• Nylon
• Wool

These fabrics are widely used, making it essential to learn how to work with them. Recognizing them is the first step, but what tools do you need for projects involving these fabrics?

Choosing the Proper Tools for Sewing Fabrics that Stretch

A common concern for people who want to learn how to sew stretchy fabrics is whether they will need a serger for their sewing machine. Sergers can be very useful because they keep the fabric stable, making the process faster, but they may not be in your budget. Crucially, you don’t need one.

What you do need, however, is a ballpoint needle. These needles are also called “jersey needles” and “stretch needles,” and they have rounded ends. Using regular ones can tear the fabric. If the fabric is very delicate, you may want to invest in ballpoint pins, too.

The thread you use is important as well. If you’re using cotton thread, as most quilters do, you’ll want to switch over to polyester thread. That’s because polyester thread has more stretch. Make sure your bobbin is also full of polyester thread.

Handling Stretchy Fabric While Sewing

It’s important to pre-wash the fabric before getting to work because this will present a more accurate idea of its size. Let it dry flat so that it doesn’t lose its shape.

Once it’s completely dry, pin the pattern to the fabric, and ensure that the fabric is also either pinned in place or weighed down with paperweights if you’re using a rotary cutter. If you use pins, confirm they’re within the seam allowance to avoid getting holes in the fabric.

Does the fabric have a curl at the edges? That curl can make using the fabric more difficult. To reduce some of the curl, use a starchy spray on the edges, and press them flat.

When you get ready to cut the fabric, don’t stretch it, and don’t allow the edges to hang down from the table or other cutting surfaces, as that could cause stretching, too. Place it completely flat as well.

Selecting the Right Stitches

Choosing the appropriate stitches is key because when these fabrics stretch, they can snap stitches that aren’t flexible. A straight stitch, for example, won’t be strong enough for the job. One of the best options is a serger stitch, but if you don’t have a serger, your sewing machine provides an alternative: the zigzag stitch.

Set your machine to a narrow zigzag stitch. This usually means about 0.5 to 1 mm in width and a stitch that’s about 3 mm in length. Zigzag stitches are helpful because they readily stretch, and you can even use them for hemlines.

If your machine has specialty stitches, like a lightning bolt stitch, you can use that, too. Another option is to try a triple stitch if your machine has the ability to do so because it creates a secure seam.

If you notice that you’ve stretched the fabric despite your best efforts and you end up with a wavy seam, try ironing the area out by using a lot of steam. This usually helps you get that flat, professional look.

Using the Appropriate Presser Foot When You Sew

You never want to pull or push on your fabric when it’s on the machine. Instead, let the feed dogs do the work. If you think that your machine’s presser foot is putting too much pressure on the fabric, see if you can adjust the pressure. Most sewing machines have a way of doing this.

If the pressure is too high, you’ll know because the fabric will have a rippled effect. For knit fabrics, a setting of one or lower is generally appropriate.

You can use a walking foot to gently feed the fabric. The upper feed dogs pull the fabric through at an even rate with this attachment. You can also try a knit foot. A knit foot doesn’t have upper feed dogs, but it uses less pressure on the fabric, so the results are the same.

Practicing With Your Tools and Different Types of Stretch Fabric

It can take some practice to get the hang of working with fabrics that are elastic for sewing. Even if you don’t have a project you’re looking to try, take time to test the needles, the pressure foot, and all of the other variables that make a difference.

If you find the right settings and tools for working with stretchy fabrics, jot them down so that you can quickly get to work the next time.

Get the High-Quality Supplies You Need at GoldStar Tool

One of the most important steps to mastering stretchy fabrics is ensuring you have all of the necessary supplies. The wrong needles or a malfunctioning sewing machine can make handling any type of fabric a challenge.

At GoldStar Tool, we’re your one-stop shop for everything from needles to feed dogs and beyond. Check out our tools to find the right equipment for your next project today.